Tuesday 19 August 2014

Cuenca to Guayaquil

Hi everyone,

I'm in Guayaquil with Kim! We've been busy working, putting together the exhibition that opens tomorrow - see previous post for some pictures I uploaded from my iPhone. Kim is out here for the year (January to January), running art workshops with children in deprived areas in Guayaquil. Guayaquil is a hot city in the South of Ecuador on the coast (kind of coast - more like the top of a very long estuary). It's technically the coastal region therefore. Quito is in the Sierra (mountains), and the jungle is la Selva, so I've now been in all 3 types of Ecuadorean regions. We're going to go to the actual coast when we go travelling together in a few weeks. Anyway, Kim's been working on 2 different projects with the kids - one about community, and one about superheroes, and we've been installing all the kids' work at a gallery in downtown Guayaquil (it's a pretty nice area in fact, contrary to what I'd been told / led to believe about Guayaquil). I'm already getting tired of typing Guayaquil - it's not an easy word to type - try it. You pronounce it why-a-kill. It's easier to pronounce than to type.

So we got here on Sunday night, me and Kim, and 2 of her flatmates Becky and Laura. We had all met up in Cuenca on Saturday morning - I got the night bus from Quito on Friday night to Cuenca. This took 7 hours, and I drank one small sip of water during those 7 hours, as I get panicked about needing a wee. They don't have toilets on the night buses (or if they do, they lock them and you can't use them). We stopped at around 4am for a toilet stop, so I ran off and then ran back - when I'm on the night bus on my own, I worry that at the toilet stops the bus won't know if you're back or not, and it'll just set off without you. If you're with someone else at least they can tell the bus driver to wait. Anyway, that was my only thought on the night bus, as I slept the whole entire journey, to the point that the driver had to wake me up in Cuenca as he knew I was getting off there. The reason I slept was because I'd gone out dancing with some hostel friends in Quito on the Thursday night and was still a bit hungover. This is a good tactic for the night bus.

Cuenca - on Saturday morning - was cold, and rainy. I got a taxi to the hostel, and rang the doorbell for a while, until someone answered. I then just sat down for quite a while, drinking orange flavoured tea and eating chifles (these are the really thinly sliced and fried plantains - banana flavoured crisps), and wondering how come it was so cold in Cuenca. Kim arrived around 12, with her flatmates from Guayaquil - Becky is English and working on the same project as Kim, but as a psychologist, as is Laura, who's from Uruguay (which is almost as hard to type as Guayaquil, but not quite).  I have mainly seen Kim in countries beginning with B - she came to visit me in Belize in 2008, then I've seen her in Britain, and last year I saw her in Bolivia. I'm now seeing her in Ecuador. This makes the word BE. I took this as a profound sign of something. Then we remembered that we met first in Mexico. This doesn't really spell anything, except MBE.

We wandered around Cuenca for a while, chatting and looking for somewhere to eat. I'd heard lots of good things about Cuenca - it's a colonial-ish town with some cobbledy streets. It was very nice in fact, but mostly it was nice to see Kim again. I last saw her in January, before she left England to come to Ecuador. When I met up with her last year in Bolivia, I was there for 3 months on the ICS volunteering project, and Kim was on her way from Chile to Brazil - she'd been doing an art residency in Chile and was headed to Brazil to do a 3 month art workshop volunteer project, similar to what she's doing now. Kim has a huge brain, and learnt Portuguese in about 6 weeks, her Spanish is fluent, and when she visited me in Belize she had been cycling through Central America for 8 months on her own. I first met her on a Macmillan Cancer charity bike ride through Mexico in 2008.

Anyway - we wandered around Cuenca until we found a place for an almuerzo dos dolares. This is lunch for 2 dollars and is 2 courses - the first one is soup, the 2nd is something like seco de pollo - this literally means dry chicken. The chicken is in a nice tomatoey sauce, served with rice and salad. It's not dry, but it's more dry than the soup, which is why Becky thought it's called seco de pollo. Another story is that because it's the second course, which is called segundo, this became seco, in a shortened form. We then went in an Incan museum, wandered some more, and had a piece of cake and coffee at a vaguely swanky place. I had tea instead of coffee - asking for black tea with milk in South America can cause all sorts of confusion. Sometimes you get hot milk with a teabag on the side. This time I got black tea on its own. I asked for milk a few more times, to be met with various different facial expressions that made me suspicious, and in the end was told I'd have to pay an extra 1 dollar for some milk. I declined and took some of the foam from Kim's cappuccino instead to use as milk. It's these kind of intricate details you all love reading my blog for isn't it. I know.

We had a siesta / beer / chat at the hostel. Our chatting was in English and Spanish - Laura doesn't speak English, so it would either be those 3 chatting in Spanish, and me trying to follow it all, or us 3 speaking in English and Laura not really understanding. Becky and Kim both speak really good Spanish - Becky lived in Argentina teaching English for a year and a half before coming to Ecuador earlier this year. Me and Kim opened some presents that Siobhan had sent over with me for us both - lovely notebooks from Sri Lanka - thanks Siob. I presented Kim with the gifts/things I'd brought for her - some cycling shoes (her boyfriend here - Tyrone - is a really serious cyclist and has built her a really cool road bike), some chocolate for Tyrone to sample (maltesers, a galaxy bar, and a cadburys caramel - can you believe I hadn't eaten any of them en route?), and a tub of tahini paste so she can make some houmous. The tahini paste had marginally exploded on the journey so far, so that I'd had to wash the chocolate bars - I was quite pleased to get rid o these objects and Kim was really happy to get them as they're all either impossible or very expensive to buy in Ecuador.

On Sunday we got up and went to el Parque Cajas, a National Park nearby and went for a lovely walk.

What actually happened is this. We got up, faffed around for a while, had some breakfast, went for some more breakfast, got behind schedule, got a cab to the bus station, paid 10 cents to go to the bus platform to be told there weren't any buses going to las Cajas, asked a lot of questions, got another taxi to another part of town, waited for another bus to take us to las Cajas (no idea which one we were waiting for so we asked every single one that stopped), got on one after about 30 minutes of waiting, got off it a while later when the driver told us we were there, wandered around looking for the park entrance for around 40 minutes. In this time we bought some gloves, put on 3 more layers of clothing, and drank a hot alcoholic drink - canelazo (the one that is like mulled wine), and wished each other happy christmas. It was pretty cold up there in the park - apparently we were now at 3800 metres. There were loads of religious statues of Jesus, and we appeared to be in the small, religious part of the park, where there were posters up demanding us to be quiet and have peaceful recollection. Of what I don't know. Possibly of how we'd become this lost in the first place. We asked a few old men where the park was, and eventually worked out that we needed to get back on the bus and go further up the road. So we did just that. By this point it was around 1pm, and we still had to go for a walk and get all the way back to Cuenca, get our bags, get to the bus station and go 3 hours to Guayaquil.

This part of the park was pretty beautiful, kind of reminiscent of the lake district, but not many camping shops or places for cream tea. It was absolutely freezing by now, but we were also vaguely drunk thanks to the canelazo. We bemoaned the string of odd / bad decisions / things that had happened so far that day (and mostly blamed it on the strange religious statues), only to then discover that there wasn't the expected 10 dollar entrance fee to the park. Our luck seemed to be changing. Kim then told me about some tourists who had gone missing for 6 days in the park. Because it's in the mountains, the weather can change very quickly - the clouds can suddenly descend and the path isn't that clear to begin with, so I can imagine how dangerous this can be, along with the added danger of the freezing cold. We had bought loads of picnic food, so were pretty sure we'd be ok if this happened - I had my penknife too so could fend off any of the bears and woodpeckers we'd read about in the guidebook.

We followed a (hard to follow) path around the lake, which should have taken 3.5 hours (to go only 2.6 miles - but you're at altitude so it's not that easy), but took about 1.5 hours to get to another sign that then said it was 5.5 hours, but it wasn't clear whether it was another 5.5 hours, or 5.5 hours altogether. Then we saw one that said 20 minutes back to the information centre. I persuaded everyone this was the best option incase the killer clouds descended, and given that we couldn't understand the map or the timings, and had a lot to still do. My feet were wet from muddy puddles and my fingers were frozen and I wanted a cup of tea. We ate a homemade tuna sandwich by the side of the lake, mainly so we had used the picnic items and penknife, and then had a cup of tea in the information centre and looked at the view, and me and Kim talked about Ecuador. She asked me how I was finding Ecuador so far, which I told her was quite a formal question for this point in the proceedings.

Leaving las Cajas was another story. We got to the bus stop nearby, by this point I was wearing 7 layers of clothing, including 1 thermal long sleeved top, a cycling jacket, a hoodie, and a rain coat. I was freezing - it was that cold that gets into your bones, like in Yorkshire, but much more dramatic and Incan. I saw a bus coming after a few minutes - we all yelped with excitement at the thought of being out of the cold and on our way back. The bus flew by at around 80kmh. We didn't know why. Another bus appeared a few minutes later - our luck was back. It flew by too. None of the buses that we saw coming were stopping - one little one looked like it was going to, but then changed his mind. It turns out it's actually illegal for people to stand on buses here and all the buses passing us were full, and for some strange reason, abiding by the law. Why at this moment in time, would Ecuadorean bus drivers decide to abide by the law? I don't know, but that is what happened. Kim had the genius idea of hitch-hiking. Immediately our luck was back and a lady and her daughter leaving the park picked us all up in her car - the 4 of us squashed into the back - not sure how legal that is, but it's standard fare here. She dropped us right at our hostel, 40 minutes later, and wouldn't accept any money at all for the favour. Amazing. The gigantic dog from the hostel greeted us - he is literally enormous - kind of like a sheep, and his name is Vincent Vega. I wanted to mention him earlier, but couldn't find the right way to do it and now we're about to leave Cuenca so I had to get him in the story somehow. I'm not sure he even did greet us at this point, but this is artistic license.

We found out that it is illegal to drink alcohol on Sundays in Ecuador, through chatting to the lady who gave us the lift. I think she may have thought we were all alcoholics as we had so many questions about drinking - she asked at one point if we needed to go get something to drink. I was confused as we'd drunk canelazo, but perhaps it's only cold alcohol that's illegal, or perhaps if you drink in a park full of religious statues then it's all fine.

We got our stuff, said goodbye to Vincent Vega (*this may not have actually happened), then went to get a collectivo to Guayaquil. This is a small minibus/people carrier. I think it's cheaper than the normal large bus, and Kim said it's quicker because of where it drops you off when you get to Guayaquil being closer to where their house is.  We chatted for a while and then instantly passed out for a few hours - the altitude and walking and canelazo had caught up with us. Also driving through the windy (curvy not breezy) roads in the dark was hypnotic like being in a computer game, with just lights whizzing by on either side, and wondering if you get another life if you lose yours while your collectivo is trying to overtake a big lorry whilst going round a corner up a hill in busy traffic.  I woke up suddenly in Guayaquil, as the collectivo ground to a sudden emergency stop to avoid hitting the car in front. I still had 7 layers of clothing on and a scarf at this point. You don't need 7 layers of clothing in Guayaquil, you need 1, and actually you don't need that 1 layer, but it's more socially acceptable to keep it on.

We got a taxi to Kim's house from the collectivo and that's where I'll stop this update. I'm currently at Kim's, her friend Corey is here too now, he arrived today. His name is actually spelt Kory - this means gold, in Quechua (the indigenous language of Peru/Ecuador/Bolivia). Kim knows him from her time in Cochabamba, Bolivia last year - he's passing through Ecuador having left Bolivia after a year there. He's originally from Cochabamba but grew up in the States from an early age, and this year was the first time he'd come to Bolivia (now Ecuador). Interesting, all these people with their different lives and different experiences.

Kim's gone to the supermarket with Tyrone to buy some other chocolate, to do the chocolate taste test. We're going to make him eat the chocolate I brought from England, along with some other chocolate, like Hershey's or something awful, and he has to rank them in order of preference. This has no purpose other than to prove that English chocolate is most likely nicer than Hershey's chocolate, which everyone knows anyway.

Tomorrow afternoon is the opening of the exhibition, we have a few more things to do there, and Kim has to prepare a short speech for the opening. I'm then getting a night bus to Banos, a nice sounding small spa town 7 hours away, kind of halfway back to Quito - I'm going to see Danny (friend from Quito) there for a few days, and then decide what to do next. It's really really lovely to spend these few days with Kim and be able to help her with her exhibition, and see all the amazing work she's been doing over the last year with the kids. We're going to meet up again next Friday to travel for a week together, most likely up the coast north and finishing in Quito for my flight home. The thought of which makes me feel a little bit sick as I don't really want to come home so soon, but not as sick as all the cake we ate this afternoon to celebrate 2 days of hard work at the gallery.

Over and out pepinillos for now xx






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